Hi Friends,
It’s Sarah from Sewingfun101. In today’s blog I’m taking a pair of pants that are a bit too big and tailoring them with one of my favourite Ellie and Mac Patterns, the Stephan Cargo Pants Sewing Pattern (Straight Fit).
Have you ever found an item at the store but it didn’t quite fit right? I imagine you are sitting on the other end of the screen nodding in quiet assent. After all, a major reason why many of us sew is to create garments that fit our unique body proportions.
Although I enjoy sewing my growing handmade wardrobe, I am also a huge fan of thrift shopping. There is the thrill of finding items that I will never find anywhere else and at much lower prices than retail. Plus, there is the satisfaction in knowing that I am reducing perfectly good textiles from heading toward the landfill.
While browsing I found 100% wool pants that were new with the original tags and extra buttons. Of course I bought them! I chose a size that corresponded with my model's waist measurements, however I was reasonably certain that they would be baggy and too long for his legs. This is not an issue as I am able to modify clothing to fit the wearer by using a pattern as my guide.
It’s been a few weeks and the future recipient of those pants has just called to ask about my progress. I let the silence hang between us for a few moments and sheepishly admitted that I hadn’t started yet. I always have a running list of projects to do, but simply not enough time to do them all.
Well, my friends, in this blog I will demonstrate how I will resize the pants using the Adult Stephan Pants. I already made a practice pair in the summer, so I know that it will fit well.
Challenges and Solutions
The fit challenges are that my model has an XXL waist, L hips, M thighs, S calves and a short inseam.
The fit solutions are to blend between sizes and to shorten the rise and inseam.
Need some help with sizing?
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Modifying the Stephen Pants using Affinity Designer will explain how to digitally shorten or lengthen the Stephen Pants Pattern.
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Pattern Grading SOS (authored by Nellie) offers an overview on how to smoothly transition between sizes.
The Process
STEP 1: Stop procrastinating and start the project. But first, get distracted by writing about the process. Then, do an online search for how the pants are supposed to fit on a trim, straight fitting body.
STEP 2: Find the pants which were firmly buried under all the new fabric that has been recently purchased, washed and folded, but not yet put away because the fabric closet is full.
STEP 3: Have my model try on the pants. Confirm that it is baggy all over. The belt helps somewhat but it still needs tailoring.
STEP 4: Locate the file in Affinity Designer with the previously modified shorts pattern. Open up the original file and blend with the full length pants. Double check for accuracy and then triple check. The pattern may not have smooth “truing” because that will be done “on the fly” (pun intended).
STEP 5: Skip fabric tetris - it won’t work for this project. Instead, project the pattern directly onto the fabric. Since the pockets and fly are already constructed I will be focussing on the front and back leg pieces. Using an erasable fabric pen, transfer the pattern lines onto the pant legs and carefully cut them. Finish the seams so they will not fray.
STEP 6: Compare the preconstructed waistband to the pattern piece. Wonder why I bought it in this size when there were smaller sizes that would have fit better. Cinch in the back rather than cutting off the whole piece.
STEP 7: Sew the pants together using the Stephen Pants pattern instructions. Leave the pant leg hem unfinished for now.
STEP 8: Compare the original version to the new one. What a difference!
STEP 9: Hem the pants. That is it. The pants are done and ready to wear.
I love how easy it is to make clothing fit with Ellie and Mac Patterns!
See My Previous Blog Posts:
Accessible Sewing - Adaptive Considerations
Accessible Sewing - Hacking the Hipster Dress
Accessible Sewing - How to Hack an Insulated Medical Bag
DIY Beret: A Fun & Fashionable Sewing Project
Part 1 - Digital Pattern Manipulation Using Affinity Designer
Part 2 - Digital Pattern Tetris
Part 3 - Modifying Patterns with Affinity Designer - How to shorten/lengthen the Stephen Pants
Vintage Inspired Sewing: Adding a Woven Ribbon and Bow to the Sadie Bubble Skirt
Vintage Inspired Sewing: Recreating a Fit and Flare Dress with Ellie and Mac
Adding an Enclosed Recessed Zipper to a Bag
- Written by Sarah Callahan
