How to Make and Add Piping to Clothing

By Jessica LuckertApr 9, 2026

Project Planning

For my fifth Gisella I want to emphasize the bold blue undertones of my fabric by using it as a contrast fabric. This will add a “pop of colour” for visual interest and make the dress more fun. My plan is to add it to the collar, cuffs, buttons, hemline and as piping between the two skirt layers.

Although I adore the oversized, poofy sleeves that come with the Gisella, I will be using slimmer sleeves from the Beverley Button Down Blouse.

To visualize my project, I created a mockup of my dress using Ibis Paint X. If you'd like to learn how to make a digital mockup please click here.

Now that I’ve decided on a pattern and created my mockup I am ready to start sewing! But first I have a bit of prep work to do. Before I can finalize this round of digital fabric tetris and project my pattern directly onto the fabric, I need to create some piping!

What is Piping?

Piping is a decorative, three-dimensional trim that is made by enclosing a piece of cord into a strip of fabric that is cut on the bias. When sewn into a seam it defines edges, adds structure and creates a polished tailored finish to your garment.

Piping is often seen around the collar, cuffs, and hemlines of high-end garments. It is also used as an embellishment in princess seams and between the layers of tiered skirts.

Where can I find Piping?

Piping can be purchased at your local fabric store or online, but it may be limited in colour and fabric design. Creating custom piping is an easy and affordable way to add a decorative touch to your garment.

In this tutorial I will demonstrate how to make and attach piping into your garment.

What you will need:

Gisella Oversized Puff Sleeve Shirt and Dress Sewing Pattern
Woven fabric (100% cotton is great)
Cording (6mm)
Affinity Designer
Quilting ruler with 45° angle
Rotary Cutter or Scissors
Sewing machine and notions

Making Piping

Step 1: Cut Strips on the Bias

Woven fabric cut on the bias has the greatest amount of stretch. We want this so that our piping will be smooth and without unwanted pleats. The bias is a 45° angle from the selveges.

Cut your fabric into strips that measure 1 ½” by the required length.

For a size small I have estimated that I will need approximately 65” of piping. That corresponds to the width of the bottom of the top skirt tier. I recommend making a few extra inches as a precaution.

You can choose from one of two options - use a ruler or make a digital template for projection. Both methods are easy and can be done in minutes.

Traditional Quilting Ruler

Use a quilting ruler to draw diagonal lines on the bias. It is a triangular ruler that can be purchased at any fabric, quilting or hardware store.

Digital Pattern Projection

Use Affinity Designer to create a simple pattern that will then be projected directly onto your fabric.

Draw a rectangle (keyboard shortcut: [M]) that is 1.5” wide.

Rotate the rectangle by 45°.

Copy and paste the rectangle as many times as needed until you have your desired length.

Note: I have also cut 2” strips on the bias to make double folded bias tape. Directions will not be included in this tutorial.

Step 2: Continuous Bias Strip

Sew strips together to make one continuous piece.

Step 3: Press with your Iron

Fold in half, wrong sides together and press to create a memory crease.

Step 4: Cording

Insert cording into the strip and baste. It does not have to be sewn closely as that will be done when we attach the piping to our garment.

** Sewing Piping **

Step 5: Fabric Sandwich

Baste the piping onto the top skirt layer so that it won't shift.

Overlap the beginning and end of the binding at a slant. Trim off the excess fabric.

You may want to use matching thread so that it doesn't look as messy. The good news is that any visible basting stitches can be removed later on.

The Gisella requires gathering the middle tier to the width or the upper tier. Use your preferred method - I will be basting two rows and lightly pulling on the strings.

Take your time when gathering, ensuring that the gathers are evenly spaced.