Adding Ruffles to the Ashley Hourglass Swimsuit

By Jessica LuckertJun 12, 2026

Adding Ruffles to the Ashley Hourglass Swimsuit

Hi, I'm Emily! I've been sewing for years and love trying new skills and projects. I discovered Ellie and Mac in 2020, and it opened up the world of garment sewing for me. My favorite thing about sewing clothes is how many customizations you can make to create the perfect piece for yourself. I'm excited to share one of my ideas with you!

I recently saw a beautiful swimsuit online featuring ruffle accents and contrasting color bands, but it was far outside my budget. This tutorial will show you how to add similar ruffle details to the Ashley Hourglass Swimsuit Pattern.

Pattern Pieces

For this swimsuit, I used the solid swimsuit option with thin straps. I needed the following pattern pieces:

● Swimsuit front

● Swimsuit back

● Bust band

● Thin straps

● Shelf bra pieces

Pattern Adjustments and Cutting

For the bust band, I chose to use the front and back bust band pieces as one continuous piece rather than cutting them separately. To do this, I taped the pieces together along the short edge. I then folded the combined piece in half widthwise so I could sandwich the ruffle along the top edge.

For the lining, I cut all pieces according to the pattern instructions.

For the outer fabric, I trimmed ½ inch from the leg openings on both the front and back pieces to make room for the contrasting color band.

Cut the Following Pattern Pieces

● Front lining

● Back lining

● Shelf bra pieces

● 2 bust band pieces

● Modified outer front and back pieces

● 2 thin straps

Additional Pieces to Cut

Contrast Bands

● ¾ inch wide

● Length equal to 85% of the leg opening circumference

Leg Opening Ruffles

● 1 inch wide

● Length equal to 2 times the leg opening circumference

Bust Band Ruffle

● 2 inches wide

● Length equal to 2 times the bust band circumference

Assembling the Swimsuit

Begin by constructing the lining and shelf bra according to the pattern instructions.

Outer Swimsuit

Sew the side seams and crotch seam of the outer swimsuit.

Next, sew each contrast band into a loop by joining the short ends. Attach the contrast band to the leg opening.

Once both contrast bands are attached, insert the shelf bra and lining into the outer swimsuit and baste the leg openings and top edge of the suit together.

Creating the Ruffles

Now it's ruffle time! Grab a good movie or audiobook—we're going to be doing a lot of gathering.

Leg Opening Ruffles

Sew each ruffle into a loop by joining the short ends.

Using a long basting stitch, sew along one edge of the ruffle. Gather the ruffle until it matches the circumference of the leg opening.

Place the gathered edge along the leg opening and clip it in place.

Once both leg opening ruffles are clipped, baste them in place.

Gather the ruffle to fit the leg hole, place the gathered edge along the hole, and clip in place:

Next, attach the elastic to the inside of each leg opening following the pattern instructions. This step can be a little challenging because the ruffles add extra bulk. Take your time and sew slowly.

Bust Band Ruffle

Sew both bust band pieces into loops by joining the short ends. For the ruffle, sew the short ends together to create a loop.

Fold the ruffle in half lengthwise so the long edges are aligned. This creates a fuller, more dramatic ruffle.

Using a long basting stitch, sew along the raw edge and gather the ruffle until it matches the length of the bust band.

Clip the gathered ruffle to one bust band piece and baste it in place.

Next, place the second bust band piece on top, sandwiching the ruffle between the two layers. Sew using a stretch stitch.

Once assembled, treat the bust band as a single pattern piece. Mark the quarters and attach it to the top of the swimsuit according to the pattern instructions.