✂️ Lined Harper Everyday Jacket Hack – Elevate Your Handmade Wardrobe
Hi friends! I’m Jacqui—also known as the Mad Sewing Scientist—and I’ve been sewing for several years with a love for garment sewing and pattern hacking. One of my favorite things to sew are coats and jackets, and I love adding colorful linings, even if the pattern doesn’t call for one!
If you haven’t met the Harper Everyday Jacket, you’re in for a treat. It’s a clean, modern, and incredibly wearable layering piece. You can check it out here:
Harper Everyday Jacket Pattern
You can also browse more Ellie & Mac outerwear patterns here:
Adult Outerwear Sewing Patterns
(aff links)
After sharing my lined version of the purple faux suede/leather Harper jacket, I had several people ask how I did it… so of course, I had to turn it into a tutorial! This time, I documented the process step by step using a new version in boiled wool so you can follow along.
Why Add a Lining to the Harper Jacket?
The Harper is drafted for woven fabrics and includes beautiful finishing techniques like flat felled or French seams.
But sometimes, you want:
· A smoother feel against the skin
· A more polished, ready-to-wear finish
· The ability to use textured fabrics (like boiled wool or faux suede!)
For this version, I used:
· Outer fabric: Boiled wool
· Lining: Anti-static lining fabric
The result? Structure on the outside, comfort on the inside—and a jacket that feels as good as it looks.
How I Modified the Pattern (Adding a Lining)
To create the lining, I cut the following pieces from lining fabric:
· Bodice fronts
· Bodice back (cut on the fold for a clean finish)
· Sleeves (shortened by 1” for hemmed sleeves)
💡 Tip: Shortening the lining sleeves ensures they don’t peek out when worn.
Optional: Lined Patch Pockets
If you’re adding pockets, you can line them too for a really clean finish.
To do this:
· Sew lining and outer right sides together (3/8” seam allowance on sides and bottom)
· Leave a small opening to turn (5/8” seam allowance on top)
· Turn right side out and press
· Topstitch the top edge at ½”
If you prefer not to see any lining at the edges, trim about 1/8” off the lining piece before sewing.
Constructing the Outer and Lining
Instead of using the original seam finishes, I constructed:
· One full outer jacket (with pockets) – I chose to cut the back in 2 pieces
· One full lining – I chose the back cut on the fold
Note that because I skipped the flat felled and French seams, I used a standard 5/8” seam allowance for the back and side seams.
💡 Note: At this stage, I also attached the hem facings to the outer (main) bodice pieces, as instructed in the original pattern.
This is one of those steps that took a bit of thought when I was working out this hack, since the hem facings belong to the outer jacket—not the lining—and need to stay open until the final hemming step.
Attaching the Neck Facings and Zipper
This is the key step that makes this hack work.
First, assemble the front and back neck facings according to the pattern. Then attach the facing unit to the lining (wrong side of facing to right side of lining):
· Baste close to the raw edge
· Topstitch along the inside edge to secure
Meanwhile, the hem facings remain attached only to the outer jacket, waiting for the final step—this separation is what allows everything to be enclosed cleanly later.
Next, install the separating zipper onto the outer jacket following the pattern instructions.
Now for the magic:
The zipper and facings are sandwiched between the outer and the lining fabrics when sewing the front edges and neckline.
If you want to attach a loop for hanging the jacket, insert it either between the lining and back neck facing during the previous step (this will place the loop lower) or attach it at this stage, which can make the loop potentially visible from the outside. For my second version, I tacked down the loop after enclosing the neckline.
This creates a beautifully clean finish on the inside of the jacket.
Bagging the Sleeves (Optional)
This is my favorite part—and the one that really makes this feel like a ready-to-wear garment.
For the hemmed sleeve version:
· Reach inside through the open hem and pin lining and outer together
· Pull both lining and outer sleeve through
· Stitch right sides together
· Return lined sleeve to the normal position
Because the lining is slightly shorter, it naturally rolls inward for a clean finish.
This technique takes a bit of getting used to, so if you prefer you can just hem both the lining and outer separately and slip stich the lining to outer inside the sleeve hem.
Note: If you are following the cuffs instructions for finishing your sleeves, you would have cut both the outer and lining the same length. Baste them together at the current bottom edge and treat them as one piece to attach the placket and the cuff.
Finishing Details
I like to loosely secure the lining at the underarm to keep everything in place.
Hem Facings and Final Hemming
The hem facings are handled differently from the neckline.
They are attached to the main fabric (outer jacket) and left open until the very end.
Before closing the hem:
· Let the jacket hang overnight if possible
· This allows the lining to settle naturally
When ready to finish:
· Sandwich the lining between the outer jacket and the hem facing
· Pin from the inside to ensure everything is aligned and then transfer the pins to the outside
· Stitch the hem closed as instructed 
Final Thoughts on My Lined Harper Jackets
I absolutely love how this version turned out.
The lined construction gives the Harper jacket a polished, professional finish while making it even more comfortable to wear. This is a hack I love to do—especially when working with textured or specialty fabrics.
If you’ve never lined a jacket before, don’t be intimidated, this is a great project to try out!
If you’re ready to make your own, grab the pattern here:
Harper Everyday Jacket Pattern
Happy sewing!
– Written by Jacqui, Mad Sewing Scientist
