Diagonal Zipper Hack Tutorial

Hello everyone! My name is Katrina and I have been sewing for as long as I can remember, but in the past year and a half I made a switch from quilting to garment sewing.  I am a mother of three and a military wife, so I am writing this during nap time in New Zealand.

This blog is for the “Zip It Hoodie”.  For this hack, I printed off and assembled (grading and all) to my husband’s size, so you will have to do the same for whoever you are planning on making it for.

STEPS TO CUTTING OUT/ASSEMBLING PATTERN AND FABRIC:

Step 1
The first step is to of course print out the pattern, I taped together five pieces of paper, and and traced the front out and then cut the pattern.  Please note that I used extras scrap paper I had so do not pay attention to the left side of the image since it is not numbered correctly. 

Step 2
From there, lay the two fronts you have created side by side. 

You will need to decide where you will be placing your pockets; I measured 5 inches down from the collar line and 2 inches over, and I drew a 4 inch horizontal mark to indicate where I planned on placing the zipper, it is important to mark on the fabric
after it is cut. 

Step 3
Next I measured 7 inches up from the bottom and drew a 5 inch horizontal line.

Taking a straight edge ruler I placed it on the shoulder and drew a line from there to the waist adjustment line.

Then I drew a line 1 inch over, 2 inches up, and 4 inches down.  Doing this this creates more of a curve.

Now you cut off that section and trace it onto another blank sheet of paper, label it “flap piece” and set one aside until later, then tape the other to the opposite front piece. You should have two front pieces.
 

Step 4

From here you need to create a pattern piece for your zipper pocket placket and for the pockets themselves.  I did 2 inches by the length, plus 1 inch for each pocket zipper placket, which will be cut with the outer fabric as well as interfacing. For the chest pocket make the pattern piece the length of the zipper, plus 1 inch by 4 inches.  For the belly pocket cut the pattern piece 6 inches by the zipper length plus 1 inch. I cut the pockets with either a coordinating fabric or the lining fabric.

So now we cut out our pattern pieces.
If your lining has a right and wrong side make sure to mirror your front pieces! Also that piece we labeled “flap piece” needs to be cut out of the lining fabric on the fold where the straight side is the side on the fold. 


SEWING STEPS:

1.   The first step when assembling your pattern pieces is to mark where you want to place your pockets, and then to proceed with the zipper pocket placket.  I made a video to explain how to do this.

 
2.   After your pockets are in place, I chose to top stitch them down, which is completely optional.  My husband wanted a specific look with lots of top stitching.

3.   Now we continue to assemble the pieces together as the pattern states until it is time to add on the hood.  Being that both your front pieces are not the same you have to line up the center back of the shirt with the center back of the hood.

Doing this will ensure that the hood is straight. Don’t worry if you have one side that has extra fabric and one that does not enough, we fix this after we add the zipper. However, make sure that you line up the hoods on both the outer fabric and the liner. 

4.  When pinning the zipper in place I start from the bottom (where we just pressed) and pin my way up, but make sure not to stretch the fabric as you pin.

My zipper falls about 2 inches shy on the top because this is the largest zipper my craft store sells, so if you have the proper length zipper it should go all the way to the collar.  Attach the zipper per instructions. 

5. Once the zipper is sewn on you will then use the “flap piece” that you cut out earlier and press it wrong sides together and pin it to the underside of the zipper to create a sandwich.


Sew this then iron flat. 

6.   Now sew the liner to the waist band as well as to the zipper per instructions. ***Make sure that your flap is in between the outer fabric and the liner when sewing on the zipper. At this point you will pin together the hoods and stitch.*** 

7.   Now follow the rest of the instructions to add the sleeve cuffs and you are done!


(Written by Katrina Jacobson)

1 comment

This is amazing!

Martha Cryst March 25, 2020

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