Raised Neckline Options and Ultra Crop Tops for Layering

By Jessica LuckertJun 25, 2026

The Neckline

One of my favourite design features on a garment is the neckline. Who doesn’t love the romantic look of a sweetheart neckline or a nice, crisp squared one? I always find it fascinating how a basic bodice can be so easily transformed simply by adjusting the neckline.

However, what if the neckline you desire is too low for your preference? What are your options and what can you do?

Coverage Options

Additional neckline coverage can be achieved in different forms, such as the dickey, a built-in panel or a separate layering piece.

The “Dickey”

Perhaps I am aging myself, but the Dickey was a faux top that was popular in the 80s and 90s. There were different styles that mimicked the look of a high crew neck, turtleneck and collared, button-down shirt. It was tucked underneath another top to give the illusion of layering.

Panel built into the front bodice only.

The panel is permanently sewn into the shoulders and side seams. It features a neckband and an underbust band and allows for easy nursing access. It differs from a built-in-bra in that there is only a front piece.

I used this method with the Nyeca Sweetheart Dress.

Ultra cropped top.

The top is constructed similar to a typical tee, with the addition of an underbust band. The fit is similar to a sports bra, though with less structural support.

The benefit of this method is that it can be worn under any garment. Light padding can be added to eliminate the need for a bra. It allows for easy nursing access and can include sleeves.

Creating an Ultra Cropped Top

In this tutorial I will show you how you can use your Eliana Baby Tee Pattern to create a fitted ultra cropped layering top. It can be used as a transition piece to extend the wear of summer clothing into the fall and winter season. It is also ideal for nursing access and additional skin coverage.

I would recommend using a lightweight, natural material, such as cotton-lycra or bamboo-lycra.

Step 1: Choose Your Size

Teens: Use your chest measurement.

Adults: Use your upper bust and full bust measurements.

Both: Measure your underbust and multiply by 80%.

Step 2: Select Your Pattern Pieces

You will need the front and back bodice pieces (crop length) as well as a neckband (crew or scoop) and either sleeves or sleeve bands.

Only upper bust and full measurements should be considered in choosing your size and selecting your pieces. The waist measurement will not be relevant as the top is cropped at the underbust.

Step 3: Modify Your Pattern Pieces

Find the midway point between the bust and waist and create a new cut line.

For size small the marking has been placed 2 inches below the bust line.The amount of length you need will vary by bust size and shape.

Step 4: Create an Underbust Band

In the first step you measured your underbust and multiplied it by 80%. That is all you need to create the underbust band.

I drew a rectangle with the following dimensions: 24” x 1.75”. They should be cut in duplicate.

Note: For smaller sizes it is possible to create a single band. For my size the band would be 48” x 1.75”.

Step 5: Sew Your Garment

Sew your Eliana Baby Tee as per the instructions. In brief, attach and sew the shoulders, side seams, neckband and sleeves or arm bands.

The underbust band is constructed and attached in the same manner as the neckband and arm bands. Sew down the short ends to create one long loop. Fold the wrong sides together and press. Quarter the band and the bottom of the bodice. Match up those quarter points. Gently stretch as you sew.

Step 6: YOU ARE DONE!

Congratulations! You have just completed a versatile layering piece that can be used on its own, or for modesty, warmth and/or nursing access.

If you are anything like me you will want to sew it up in every colour of the rainbow! So far I’ve made it in orange, yellow and purple. Next on the list will be basic white and black, followed by red, pink, blue, green …

Step 7: Styling with the Natalie Knotted Tank Top

The Natalie Knotted Tank Top is such a cute summer staple. I hesitated in making it because I don’t wear tank tops (those UV rays are intense!) But then I remembered that it would look great layered on top of an ultra cropped Eliana Baby Tee.

Once I settled on my patterns, I needed to choose a fabric. I found a scrap of cotton-lycra tie dye and decided that it would look even better with an image on top. I scrolled through the Ellie and Mac Cutting Files and selected the Sewing Machine Notions graphic. It was made using a Cricut cutting machine, heat transfer vinyl and a heat press.

I have to say, I never realized how much fun I would have with my cutting machine. It’s one of those things that I don’t need to have, but it allows me to unleash my creativity and brings me so much joy.

I absolutely love the final product! It’s fun, summery and highlights my love of sewing.

Thank you so much for reading my blog! If I’ve inspired you to create your next project please tag me in the Ellie and Mac Facebook Group. I can’t wait to see what you make.

Previous Blog Posts:

Creating a Sports Jersey Using the Kids My Way Hoodie and Cricut Design Space

Resizing Pants with the Stephen Pants Pattern

Accessible Sewing - Adaptive Considerations

Accessible Sewing - Hacking the Hipster Dress

Accessible Sewing - How to Hack an Insulated Medical Bag

DIY Beret: A Fun & Fashionable Sewing Project

Part 1 - Digital Pattern Manipulation Using Affinity Designer

Part 2 - Digital Pattern Tetris

Part 3 - Modifying Patterns with Affinity Designer - How to shorten/lengthen the Stephen Pants

Waterproofing Wovens

Ibis Paint X Tutorial