How to use the Duchess Pattern for making a Bomberjacket
You will need:
- The Duchess Pattern pieces, but not the skirt pieces and the belt. The pocket pieces are optional.
- Woven fabric for the outer jacket and liner.
- Ribbon knit or jersey for the collar, cuffs and waistband
- A zipper. I used an 15” zipper.
- A sewingmachine, zipperfoot, thread, needles or clips.
- Something to measure
Take your Pattern pieces you need: the back bodice, the under front bodice, the wrap bodice, the collar and optional the pockets.
Take your sleeve pattern piece and cut 1” off, measured from the sleeve liner cutline. You are going to cut 2x2 identical sleeves so the length is the same for all your sleeves.
Take your wrap bodice piece and your under bodice piece and cut or fold it away exactly on the button line. Your bodice pieces are a little bit smaller now. That is what we want!
Cut out your fabric for the main jacket and the liner. Do not cut your collar yet!
Sew your jackets like the instruction. When you want to add pockets, place top of the pockets right under your darts.
Measure the length from the bottom of your jacket and take 87% from it to cut your waistband.
How big you want to make your waistband is your own choice. I made him exactly the size to fit with the zipper, 4” on fold. You can also chose to lengthen your pattern pieces, to make a smaller waistband. The options are endless!
Lay your waistband on your outer jacket, right side to right side and sew it on while you gently stretch the waistband. Do the same with your liner. It should look like this now:
Mark the middle from your waistband on both sides and open your zipper.
Because you have to sew your collar later on, you start pinning your zipper ¾” from the top. Pin your zipper only on your outer jacket and pin or clip until you reach the marker point on your waistband.
Sew your zipper to your jacket, when it is possible leave your needle in the middle. Always start on top from your jacket with sewing.
Pin the other half from your zipper to the other side of the jacket and make sure your zipper teeth are on the same height.
After pinning, I like to check by closing the zipper if it is all working fine.
Yes? All correct? Then sew your zipper on, again with the needle in the middle.
When you come to the zipper clip, leave your needle in the fabric, sewing foot up and gently pull the zipper clip up. Put your sewing foot down again and continue sewing.
Lay the liner on your outer jacket, right side to right side and pin your liner to the zipper. The zipper is now laying in between the outer jacket and your lining.
I like to sew on the outer jacket again, so you can see exactly where you sewed before. When it is possible, turn your needle to the left. This will avoid seeing any stitches from your first sew and you can sew closer to the zipper teeth. You will sew through three layers now: your outer jacket, your zipper and your liner. Sew it on.
Okay, okay, okay, you probably want to have a look! So turn around, check and be happy!
When you had a look, do not forget to turn your garment again and pin the other side from your liner to the outer jacket. Put your needle to the right side now and sew it on.
When you want, you can topstitch it now. You will have to use your zipper foot for that as well.
Now we are going to make the collar. Take your pattern piece and cut 2” off the largest cut on fold side.
Mark the middle from your collar, fold it and cut away the piece what is sticking out. Draw a curve and cut off as well.
Your pattern piece should now look like this.
Cut your piece of fabric, on fold.
Okay, back to the jacket! Fold the collar, wrong side to wrong side and lay it in between the edges from your jacket as near as possible to the first zipper teeth. Your jacket is still wrong way out and the layers should be like this: outer jacket, collar, zipper, liner.
Use your zipper foot to sew as close as possible to the edge of your zipper. Cut off the edges from the corners.
Turn your jacket through the sleeve. Measure your sleeve ends and cut 87% for your cuffs. I used 2.5” width. Fold the cuffs over your both sleeve ends and sew your cuffs on.
When you want, you can sew your cuffs in between the sleeves to make a reversible jacket. Then you will have to leave a gap open at your waistband for turning your jacket.
There is no step 28! You are done! Yeeha! I hope you are happy and I would love to see your creations too!
(Written by Marieke de Jonge)