Hey! It’s Elliott Gray again, from Sew Elliott. I am super excited about my latest straight fit pattern modification! After making the girls some super cute Be Creatives, I decided I really wanted one myself. To date, it is the easiest straight fit adjustment that I have made and I can’t believe I didn’t try it before.
The reason the Be Creative is so awesome now that I am transitioning is because the colorblocking line falls exactly where my binder is most noticeable on my chest. This makes me feel so much more comfortable than most other patterns. It also makes my chest appear smaller, which of course is a pretty big goal when you are transitioning from female to male.
Aside from transitioning, though, it’s still a great pattern to know how to straight fit! It allows people who like more relaxed fits to enjoy another stylish colorblocked hoodie pattern from Ellie and Mac. The ability to straight fit this pattern also allows for more parent-child matching options (I can’t wait to make some matching ones for me and the girls).
Anyway, on with the adjustments! To start with, take the measurements of the person who will be wearing the Be Creative. To accommodate for a looser fit in the shoulders, go up one size from the chest measurement. For me this meant going from a large to an extra large. My fit was still pretty slim for a straight fit so it is possible that you will want to go up two sizes. Use the measured sizes for waist and hip (large for me)
Once the pattern is assembled, the first thing you will want to adjust is the sleeve length. This is only if you are making the short sleeve version. Straight fit patterns have longer sleeves by about 2 to 3 inches. I chose to lengthen my sleeves by 2 inches but this is personal preference. Unless the person needs an adjustment based on the finished bicep size, the width of the sleeve should be left alone.
Cut out the top and bottom pieces of the shirt body leaving room to the side in case you need it while making adjustments to the side of the shirt. Place them flush against each other as shown to make adjustments. MAKE ALL ADJUSTMENTS FOR HEIGHT AT THIS TIME. For a slim straight fit (like mine) make a mark about 1 inch to the inside of the pattern line based on your hip measurement. It is always a good idea to check this measurement by folding a favorite shirt in half and placing it on the pattern to make sure it fits within the space.
For the slim straight fit, mark a straight line from the armpit of the chest size you selected down to the mark you made one inch inside the hip line. For a more relaxed straight fit, mark this line to the pattern line based on your hip measurement. The length of the waistband is a personal preference. I chose to cut mine the same width as the adjusted bottom of my shirt, as I do not like having the bands tight against my hips. Just make sure that the waistband will end up either the same size or a little bit smaller than the bottom of the shirt.
Congratulations! You have finished making all of the adjustments to straight fit the Be Creative! Cut out all of your fabric, I can’t wait to see what you’ve made!
(Written by: Elliott Gray)