PART 1 - DIGITAL PATTERN MANIPULATION USING AFFINITY DESIGNER

PART 1 - DIGITAL PATTERN MANIPULATION USING AFFINITY DESIGNER

Hello sewing friends!

Back when I still used paper patterns, I would lay out all the pieces on top of my fabric, shuffling them around to minimize fabric waste. Now that I use a projector to cast lines directly onto my fabric, I play “Digital Pattern Tetris”. The execution of Pattern Tetris in its digital form may seem foreign, but it is not difficult to master once you become comfortable with Affinity Designer.

In Part 1 I will provide an introduction to PDF pattern manipulation using Affinity Designer and an Ellie and Mac PDF pattern

In Part 2 I will demonstrate how you can digitally arrange your modified pattern pieces to fit your fabric. 

The Pattern: Breezy Dress

I will be using the Kids Breezy Dress. It’s my favourite pattern in adult sizing, so I know that it will look extra adorable on a child. It features four sleeve options, a swing style skirt, and is an easy and fast sewing project. In terms of sizing, it is suitable for 6-12 months up to Big Kid 14. The adult sizing range is XXS to 4X and includes varying hemlines. If your child has outgrown the kid’s version you can seamlessly transition to adult. The Breezy Dress is one of many Ellie and Mac patterns that offer parents an opportunity to “twin” with their child. I absolutely adore “Mommy and Me” patterns!

 

Step 1: Open the Projector File

Before I even open up Affinity Designer I am going to run it through PDF Stitcher to isolate the sizes that I need. This step isn’t required as all the programs listed do have a layers function. PDF Stitcher can erase “visual clutter” as well as change/darken line colour in one simple step.

For my project I will need to grade between sizes to account for height (4), chest (5) and waist (7). I have deselected all other sizes and generated my new PDF.

It is very important to choose the correct file format. Ellie and Mac offer Letter, A4, A0 and Projector formats on all their newer listings (older, discontinued patterns may not include certain formats). It is best to use the projector format as it will likely reduce the amount of prep work needed. A0 can certainly be used but that will likely entail rotating pieces to be on-grain, unfolding and mirroring pieces. 

Multiple files may need to be opened in cases where you choose to take elements from one pattern and apply it to another. This is also known as Pattern Mashing

Now that I have run my file through PDF Stitcher I can open it up in Affinity Designer and prep the pattern.


Step 2: Pattern Prep

The Kids Breezy Dress projector file was created in 2020. At that time projector files were still new to the market and designers were learning how to make them. Ellie and Mac is continuously updating older patterns to reflect current standards with unfolded pieces, bold lines, and large text. If you aren’t sure if your pattern has been updated or not, refer to the website or your customer account.

The Breezy Dress pattern had bold lines with all pieces were on-grain. Potential issues were that the pattern pieces were “cut on fold” and the front and back bodices were only differentiated by neck cutlines.

 

GROUPING

“Grouped objects remain together so they can be easily selected, moved, copied, and edited as if they are a single object.” - Affinity Help 

The first thing you want to do is ungroup the file (CTRL-SHIFT-G). Then draw a rectangle around all the pattern pieces to group (CTRL-G) each individual piece. Take particular care to make sure all words, markings and notches are highlighted when grouping. If you skip this step you won't be able to move pieces around without leaving other essential elements behind.


ROTATING

If your pattern is off-grain, you will need to rotate it so that the arrows are properly aligned. Click on the pattern piece. Notice how there are circles surrounding the image and one protruding on top. If you hover your mouse on top of that circle you will see a curved arrow. That indicates that you can now rotate your pattern piece. 

If it’s simply a matter of rotating your pattern, you may find it easier to use one of the following options found on the top of your screen. Remember that the pattern piece must be selected before you can rotate, or do any modifications. Alternatively, a value can be entered in the transform box at the lower right of the screen [R: 0 degree → the degree of rotation].

 

UNFOLDING

Select the pattern piece, copy (CTRL-C) and paste (CTRL-V) to duplicate or use the shortcut CTRL-J. We want a mirrored piece, so it will have to be rotated horizontally using the button noted above. To merge the pieces, drag it until the mirrored piece is perfectly aligned with the original piece. It helps if you select the red magnet, or the “snapping tool”. It then gives a list of options that you can experiment with - these are the original settings that I have been given.

For illustrative purposes, I will take the neckband piece and duplicate it. The second piece doesn’t need to be rotated as it is a rectangle, but it does need to be attached to the original piece at the fold line. With snapping enabled I can see the distance between the two pieces as well as lines to ensure that they are aligned. Once unfolded, I then use my mouse to create a square around the selection and group.

OTHER MODIFICATIONS

Once all your pattern pieces have been oriented on grain and are unfolded you will want to do any additional modifications such as size grading, adjusting for length, full bust adjustment, narrow shoulder adjustment, etc. A more advanced understanding of nodes and layers is required. 

For my particular pattern the base size will be a 5, blended to a 7 at the waist. Length will be according to size 4. 

DUPLICATING

All pattern pieces need to be visible for a projector file. That is, if you need to cut out 2 sleeves, or 2 skirts, but only one is included, you will need to click on the (unfolded) pattern piece and duplicate (CTRL-J). If it needs to be mirrored, select the flip horizontal button. 

Pattern manipulation and modification can seem daunting at first, but as with any skill, it really does become easier with time. The more time you spend learning the interface the easier the process will be. 

I hope you’ve enjoyed reading my tutorial. Please look out for Part 2 - Digital Pattern Tetris. 

(Written by: Sarah Callahan)