Hi Sewing Friends,
Have you ever wanted to sew your undergarments? Whether it’s for comfort, fit or style, Ellie and Mac has got you covered.
In this tutorial I will show you how to modify the Nyeca into a bralette. I specifically chose this pattern because of the princess seams and the lovely sweetheart shaped neckline.
Pair your new bralette with a matching Feel Frisky Panties for a complete set of undergarments. Or, use swim material and you will be ready for the beach!
What you will need:
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Knit fabric, 50% stretch and excellent recovery
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Bra pad inserts (optional)
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Elastic
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Tape measure
FABRIC TIPS:
For your fabric you will require a main and a lining. The lining can be anything that is comfortable against your skin. Powermesh/net can be used as either a lining or an interlining for extra support.
For the main you can use your favourite fashion fabric, including stretch lace. If the main fabric is sheer and you will be adding bra pads, an interlining will be necessary. Simply baste the interlining to the lace and treat as a single layer.
Taking Measurements
A pattern is only a starting point for a garment. Patterns are drafted for a specific block, or set of predetermined measurements and those likely will not correspond with your unique shape. Take a moment to properly measure yourself before starting any new sewing project.
For a well fitting bralette, we will want to measure the above bust and full bust. If the difference between your upper and full bust is more than 2” and you fall into two different sizes you will need a full bust adjustment. There is a YouTube tutorial that will teach you how to perform a full bust adjustment on a princess seamed bodice.
The underbust will determine the band size. Wrap your tape measure at the point where you would want your bra band. Multiply that number by 85-90% for your band length.
Vertical measurements are needed to determine the strap and bodice length. Measure the distance between the front and back bodice for the strap length. Then, starting at the shoulder, measure over the fullest part of the bust to the underbust. Alternatively, hold your paper pattern piece over your bust and mark the location of your underbust.
Choosing your pattern pieces
The Nyeca is such a wonderfully versatile pattern. There are options to create a shirt, peplum and dress. All three versions offer a sleeve and strap style. To create a bra we will be choosing the STRAPLESS DRESS bodice pattern pieces:
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Strap Style Front Bodice (1 main, 1 lining)
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Strap Style Front Side Bodice, (2 Main, 2 lining - mirrored)
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Strap Style Back Bodice (1 main, 1 lining)
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Straps (x2)
Modifying your pattern pieces
Transforming the bodice into a bralette is surprisingly simple. The bodice is designed to end at the natural waist. Instead, we will make a cut line at the underbust. This cut line will differ person to person.
I typically remove ¾” from the side waist. For the bralette I will be removing 3.75” from the front bodice, front side bodice and back bodice. Be sure to remove length from ALL bodice pieces (front, side and back).
In Affinity Designer I draw a box and use the Transform tool to set the dimensions. This box is 3.75” by 10”. It doesn’t matter if the width is larger than the pattern piece as it is only being used as a guide. I then used the vector pen to draw a line, creating my new cut line. I find it helpful to label my changes.
Using a paper pattern you would just mark your new line with a pen and either fold, or cut off the excess.
The straps are designed to be wide in order to hide bra straps. Since we are making a bralette, that width may not be preferable. I have reduced the width by half, making them about 1” wide when finished. Alternatively, the straps can be substituted with lingerie elastic and adjustable sliders.
The last step is to create the underbust band. Similar to the straps, you can opt to use fabric or lingerie elastic. For either method, you calculate the band size by taking your underbust measurement and subtracting 2 inches. My band is 26” x 2”. For a wider band you may want to increase that number to 3-4”.
The completed pattern pieces should look similar to the following image.
After wearing my bralette for a bit I realized that the back bodice needs to be a few inches tighter. Bras have more negative ease than one would wear in a dress. Please create a muslin / toile, before cutting into any good fabric to account for personal fit adjustments. The stretch percentage and recovery of a particular fabric will also be a determining factor as to how the bra will fit on your body.
Sewing the Bralette
Follow the pattern directions for sewing a strap style bodice. Once the bodice and lining has been constructed you will want to try it on and make sure that everything fits perfectly. Make any adjustments you need before continuing.
Adding Padding (Optional):
While wearing your bralette, determine the optimal spot for the cup pads. Very carefully pin them into place (on the wrong side of the lining) or mark the fabric with a washable marker. Your padding should not be sewn within the seam allowance. Sew with your preferred stretch stitch on a regular sewing machine (not a serger).
Note: Be sure to sew to the LINING. I accidentally mixed up my pieces so now my lining will be my main. At this point it is still possible to remove the padding and switch it to the other side. I will leave it as a “design feature”.
Sew Main, Liner & Straps:
Double check strap placement and pin to the bodice lining, right sides together. The pattern placement may not be the spot that you prefer. My straps have been adjusted a half an inch closer to the centre front. Baste straps in place.
As per the pattern instructions, place your main and lining fabrics right sides together. Pin or Clip, matching seams and notches. Sew along the top edge, taking care to enclose the strap ends in your “fabric sandwich”.
Flip right side out. Top stitch, if desired.
Attaching the Band:
Take your band piece and fold it in half, right sides together, so that the short edges meet. Sew. Fold the wrong sides together and press. Mark your quarter points and attach to the bodice, right sides together. Diana has a video tutorial on how to sew bands that clarifies this process.
Leave a gap of about 2 inches. Thread the elastic through and sew the ends with a stretch stitch. Then sew up the gap.
That's it! Your bralette is complete.
Extra Tips & Tricks
Lining is typically understitched so that it doesn’t peek through. However, that very same lining can be used to create faux piping. I added a pop of colour to a Nyeca Dress using this simple method. All that needs to be done is to pull out a bit of the lining, leaving ¼” visible and topstitch it. I used a contrasting thread for added visual interest.
Note: In this photo you can see the modesty panel that I added in for personal comfort. As an aside, it's also a clever way of creating nursing access without revealing any cleavage.
If you love the look of a corset but don’t want to be constricted, try adding piping along the vertical princess seams.
Embellish your bralette! Lace, ribbon, feathers, bows - anything goes!
Wear your custom made bralette with confidence! Even if no one sees it, be proud that you have mastered yet another sewing achievement.
Written by Sarah Callahan
